Blog No. 216 - Camino Soul Songs Part 22: 31 March 2025

On Sunday the 5 May 2013, I walked from Foncebadon to Ponferrada.  The Brierley distance from Foncebadon to Ponferrada is 27 ½ kilometres.  One of the highlights was lunch in Molineseca with Harold and Juan.

The albergue at Ponferrada was run by the local municipality and had beds for hundreds of people.

A group of noisy bicigrino arrived at about 10.00 pm when all of us walkers had gone to bed and were trying to rest.  They made sure we got little sleep because of the noise they made.  The bicigrino noise continued when they decided to make a noisy start at 5.30 am.  The bicigrino were rude and inconsiderate of others.  

This was the only time I encountered rudeness from any peregrinos – but then again, the bicigrino were not really peregrinos, they were bicigrino.  The bicigrino were always in a great rush.  Ordinary peregrinos knew that taking time to do things always increased the peace in their souls.

Apart from the bicigrino, we met another type of peregrino which was not really a peregrino at all.  The tourigrinos paid a fortune to walk a few kilometres with their belongings taken by bus to the next albergue.  The albergues were usually booked out when the tourigrinos were present.  The tourigrinos were told that they could be peregrinos and retain every comfort of home while they did so – an impossibly stupid idea.

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Harold and Juan in front of me on the Camino on the 5th of May 2013; we were now definitely constantly travelling upwards.

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Some of the astonishing beauty we met on our way through the camino. 

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The mountains were covered in snow as we trekked our way to Ponferrada. 

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Even when the Camino was close to a busy road, the walking was always pleasant.

 

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My friend Alf gave me a stone before I left Adelaide to take to Spain and to leave at the Iron Cross about 2 kilometres beyond Foncebadon.   Thousands of peregrinos had left stones at the Iron Cross, resulting in the heap of stones being at least twice the size of an average male.  

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Photo of me on top of the heap of stones at the iron Cross, just before I deposited the stone given to me by Alf. 

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Harold at the Iron Cross.

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Snow covered mountains along the way to Ponferrada.

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We strode out along the tops of the mountains while we walked to Ponferrada.  Harold is nearest to the camera, with Juan furthest away. 

Still striding across the tops of the mountains.

Rugged parts of the Camino as we crossed the mountains.

The mountains were rugged and difficult to navigate safely.

This part of the Camino was safer and easier to walk down.

We were greeted by flowers on that day in May 2013.

We walked through this village before we got to lunch at Molinaseca. 

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Diary Entry Made on Sunday 5 May 2013 at 8:17 pm

I arrived at Ponferrada at about 5:00 pm after leaving Foncebadon at about 7:15 am.  The Brierley distance today was 25.7.  [Note: The Brierley distance was actually 27.5 not 25.7 as noted in the diary.]  Harold and I are staying in albergue Saint Nicolas de Flue.  It was a big day of walking.  Harold, Juan and I had a wonderful lunch in Molinaseca.  Juan picked up his car in Ponferrada where he had parked it at the railway station so he could drive home to Madrid.

I left Alf's beautiful rose coloured quartz stone at the Iron Cross about 2 kilometres beyond Foncebadon.  Most of today's walk was through the beautiful mountain country of Leon.  First we climbed up until we finally reached the crest; then there was a very long winding descent into Molinaseca.  It was exhilarating walking and my feet did not cause me any significant pain all day.  Hooray!

Distance Walked Today: 27.5 kilometres.

Total Distance Walked So Far: 554.1 kilometres.

Total Distance Covered So Far: 575.3 kilometres including the 21.2 kilometres by taxi.

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Soul Song Number 26 - Sky Walking in the Province of Leon

(5 May 2013)

Up, up, up the Camino rose.

Soon you were sky walking in the Montes of Leon,

Snow covered mountains touched the sky on all sides of you.

With a lift in your step,

You found the Iron Cross.

Like so many others,

You left a stone,

A rose coloured quartz.

A gift from Alf.

You left your silent prayer with the stone.

Then you marched on.

For hours you walked through beautiful Spain.

This was a Spain covered in white heather,

White heather which stretched its scent and colour across the land.

Mountain villages embraced your feet.

Friendly people smiled at you.

All day you sky walked in the mountains of Leon.

What a time you had!

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My Camino Passport as at 5 May 2013

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Blog No. 215 - Camino Soul Songs Part 21: 30 March 2025

On Saturday the 4th of May 2013, I walked from Astorga to Foncebadon.  The Brierley distance from Astorga to Foncebadon is 27 kilometres.  I walked all day with Harold and Juan.  They were good company.

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Harold and I on Saturday 4 May 2013.  Harold was 81 in 2013 and he was extremely fit, much fitter than I was.

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Me and Harold’s friend Juan on the Camino.

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The Peregrino, Helen from Canada.

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Another burst of entrepreneurial spirit shown by a local along the route of the Camino on that Saturday.  The food and drinks were of good quality and very reasonably priced.

 

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One of the features of the Camino which is etched across my memory is the long lines of peregrinos that were always stretched out in front of me and behind me.  

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More peregrinos on the Way on 4 May 2013. 

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Harold took this photo of me resting among the flowers.

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The Camino gradually wound its way upwards.

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Another view of the rising height of the Camino.

Ruined structure on the route of the Camino.

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Diary Entry Made on Saturday 4 May 2013 at 3:50 pm

I am in an albergue at Foncebadon.  I arrived at about 3:00 pm after walking all day with Harold and Juan.  The Brierley distance today was 27.2 kilometres.  The day's walking was spent in beautiful sunshine although again it was very cold when we left Astorga at 7:15 am.  Adding to the good weather, today the Camino followed its own path for much of the day and didn't just follow roads.  We walked through gorgeous countryside with spring flowers all in bloom.  The Camino gained altitude all day as it approached the mountains and the highest point on the Camino.

Tomorrow we pass the Iron Cross where I will deposit Alf's stone that I have brought from Adelaide.  I still have some blister issues but I am hopeful I am near the end of the blister problems.  I now feel astonishingly fit and healthy and don't need to have a 2 hour nap as soon as I get to an albergue.  I have been that way now for 3 days including today.

Distance Walked Today: 27.2 kilometres.

Total Distance Walked So Far: 526.6 kilometres.

Total Distance Covered So Far: 547.8 kilometres including the 21.2 kilometres by taxi.

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Soul Song Number 25 - Pathway to Heaven

(4 May 2013)

Today you started to walk upward.

Today, the Camino approached and started to climb the Montes.

Flowers bloomed around you.

Sunshine bathed the very air that you breathed.

Almost imperceptibly at first,

The Camino lifted you up.

Literally and spiritually.

All day the Camino did its duty,

Providing a Pathway to Heaven.

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Blog No. 214 - Camino Soul Songs Part 20: 29 March 2025

On Friday the 3rd of May 2013, I walked from Villar de Mazarife to Astorga.  The Brierley distance from Villar de Mazarife to Astorga  is 30 kilometres.  I left the last albergue at 6:40 am and covered 30.1 kilometres according to Brierley. Yet, it actually felt like more.

It was bitterly cold in the morning followed by brilliant sunshine later in the day.  

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I had my lunch stop at Villares de Orbigo on Friday 3rd of May 2013.

It was just after dawn when I took this photo after I had left Villar de Mazarife before dawn on the 3rd of May 2013.  The photo shows my very long early morning shadow created by the sun which was slowly rising behind me.  

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The walking did not require any extensive travelling along busy roads.  It was still early in the day when I took this shot.

 

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For much of that 3rd of May, I walked through farmland that was made fertile by irrigation water.  This irrigation canal served many kilometres of farmland.  

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For most of the Camino, the signage was excellent.  This Camino sign had been highlighted by yellow paint to make sure that it was seen. 

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This bridge led to Villares de Orbigo, where there was food and accommodation.  I did not stay, but kept walking.

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Another photo of the bridge to  Villares de Orbigo; it was a very long bridge.

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By the 3rd of May, thousands of peregrinos were walking the Camino every day.  This line of peregrinos was headed towards Astorga.

The line of peregrinos wound its way through green fields and grassy plains.  It was pleasant walking that day.

A small wayside stall greeted us as we walked towards Astorga.  The stall was run by a local who saw an opportunity to sell some souvenirs to pilgrims.  The sales opportunities may have been more limited than might seem at first glance though.  Because every one of us had walked for great distances with packs on our backs, we were all extremely aware of the weight implications of buying anything. Perhaps he should’ve set shop closer to the beginning of the Camino.

This cross was on a hill outside Astorga.  I did not realise it at the time, but I still had at least one hour of trudging through suburbs before I got near the next albergue.

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Diary Entry Made on Friday 3 May 2013 at 4:10 pm

I am at Saint Javier albergue in Astorga.  It is very close to the cathedral at Astorga.  I got here about 3:30 pm.  It was a very long but very pleasant walk except for the final hour of walking into Astorga through an endless satellite town called San Justo de las Vegas.  I left the last albergue at 6:40 am and covered 30.1 kilometres according to Brierley although it actually felt like more.

It was bitterly cold in the morning followed by brilliant sunshine later in the day.  Better still, most of the walk was not on main roads.  Where the Camino was on roads, the roads tended to be minor roads with little traffic.  Better still, a reasonable proportion of today's Camino followed tracks well away from any traffic.  Exhausting day but a very good one.

Distance Walked Today: 30.1 kilometres.

Total Distance Walked So Far: 499.4 kilometres.

Total Distance Covered So Far: 520.6 kilometres including the 21.2 kilometres by taxi.

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Soul Song Number 23 - Walking in Sunshine

(3 May 2013)

You positively know that you have been blessed when you walk in sunshine.

The portents were good right from the start on this glorious day.

There was no sign of rain.

Sure there were clouds,

But that meant nothing.

It was so cold that you buried your hands in your gloves.

It was so cold that you buried your face in your beanie.

But none of this meant anything either.

You were warm because you were walking.

You were warm because it wasn't raining.

You walked in relative comfort because by now you could easily ignore the blisters.

You could also ignore the various aches across your body.

The blisters and the aches didn't matter anymore.

So the day started well.

Then it steadily got better.

The River of Pilgrims stretched before you and behind you.

The River was moving steadily through the greenery of northern Spain.

Buoyed by the River, the rhythm of the day set in.

Then the River was blessed by sunshine.

What more could you have asked for?

You were walking in sunshine,

Urging your feet closer to The Saint.

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Soul Song Number 24 - The Pilgrim

(For Helen Especially, but Really for All Solo Female Pilgrims)

(3 May 2013)

Of course, all humans are pilgrims.

That means that every one of us is special.

When some of us realise that we are pilgrims,

We often go on a physical pilgrimage.

A physical pilgrimage such as the Camino.

All Camino pilgrims are special.

That is because they seek special knowledge,

Special information about why they exist.

Being a pilgrim on the Camino is physically hard.

Camino pilgrims often share the hardship by walking with friends and loved ones.

This can help to make the pilgrimage seem slightly less difficult than it really is.

Some pilgrims walk the Camino without the company of friends or loved ones.

For them, the Camino pilgrimage can be lonely even though they are never truly alone.

Although walking the Camino is never easy,

Male solo pilgrims often find the Camino slightly less difficult than their female counterparts.

They can often hide their fear beneath a facade of male bluster and bravado.

Female solo pilgrims cannot do this.

Not for them is there a pretence of physical strength,

An emotional showing to deter unwanted advances.

Their sole protections are intelligence and close observation of their surroundings,

Of course, there is one additional protection.

Staying lucky.

This is why female solo pilgrims are always special.

The Camino is hard for everyone,

But for them it is that much harder.

If walking the Camino is harder for solo female pilgrims,

Their reasons for doing it must be that much stronger.

That is why you wondered about Helen.

Helen said she was walking the Camino because she had turned fifty.

Perhaps Helen even thought she was walking the Camino because she had turned fifty.

You wondered if this was the real reason though.

Surely her need ran deeper than that.

Perhaps one day she would discover the true reason.

If she does,

The knowledge is hers to keep.

It does not have to be shared.

For Helen is the pilgrim,

Seeking her own truth.

Buen Camino Helen.

Buen Camino to all solo female pilgrims.