On Friday the 3rd of May 2013, I walked from Villar de Mazarife to Astorga. The Brierley distance from Villar de Mazarife to Astorga is 30 kilometres. I left the last albergue at 6:40 am and covered 30.1 kilometres according to Brierley. Yet, it actually felt like more.
It was bitterly cold in the morning followed by brilliant sunshine later in the day.
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I had my lunch stop at Villares de Orbigo on Friday 3rd of May 2013.
It was just after dawn when I took this photo after I had left Villar de Mazarife before dawn on the 3rd of May 2013. The photo shows my very long early morning shadow created by the sun which was slowly rising behind me.
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The walking did not require any extensive travelling along busy roads. It was still early in the day when I took this shot.
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For much of that 3rd of May, I walked through farmland that was made fertile by irrigation water. This irrigation canal served many kilometres of farmland.
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For most of the Camino, the signage was excellent. This Camino sign had been highlighted by yellow paint to make sure that it was seen.
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This bridge led to Villares de Orbigo, where there was food and accommodation. I did not stay, but kept walking.
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Another photo of the bridge to Villares de Orbigo; it was a very long bridge.
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By the 3rd of May, thousands of peregrinos were walking the Camino every day. This line of peregrinos was headed towards Astorga.
The line of peregrinos wound its way through green fields and grassy plains. It was pleasant walking that day.
A small wayside stall greeted us as we walked towards Astorga. The stall was run by a local who saw an opportunity to sell some souvenirs to pilgrims. The sales opportunities may have been more limited than might seem at first glance though. Because every one of us had walked for great distances with packs on our backs, we were all extremely aware of the weight implications of buying anything. Perhaps he should’ve set shop closer to the beginning of the Camino.
This cross was on a hill outside Astorga. I did not realise it at the time, but I still had at least one hour of trudging through suburbs before I got near the next albergue.
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Diary Entry Made on Friday 3 May 2013 at 4:10 pm
I am at Saint Javier albergue in Astorga. It is very close to the cathedral at Astorga. I got here about 3:30 pm. It was a very long but very pleasant walk except for the final hour of walking into Astorga through an endless satellite town called San Justo de las Vegas. I left the last albergue at 6:40 am and covered 30.1 kilometres according to Brierley although it actually felt like more.
It was bitterly cold in the morning followed by brilliant sunshine later in the day. Better still, most of the walk was not on main roads. Where the Camino was on roads, the roads tended to be minor roads with little traffic. Better still, a reasonable proportion of today's Camino followed tracks well away from any traffic. Exhausting day but a very good one.
Distance Walked Today: 30.1 kilometres.
Total Distance Walked So Far: 499.4 kilometres.
Total Distance Covered So Far: 520.6 kilometres including the 21.2 kilometres by taxi.
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Soul Song Number 23 - Walking in Sunshine
(3 May 2013)
You positively know that you have been blessed when you walk in sunshine.
The portents were good right from the start on this glorious day.
There was no sign of rain.
Sure there were clouds,
But that meant nothing.
It was so cold that you buried your hands in your gloves.
It was so cold that you buried your face in your beanie.
But none of this meant anything either.
You were warm because you were walking.
You were warm because it wasn't raining.
You walked in relative comfort because by now you could easily ignore the blisters.
You could also ignore the various aches across your body.
The blisters and the aches didn't matter anymore.
So the day started well.
Then it steadily got better.
The River of Pilgrims stretched before you and behind you.
The River was moving steadily through the greenery of northern Spain.
Buoyed by the River, the rhythm of the day set in.
Then the River was blessed by sunshine.
What more could you have asked for?
You were walking in sunshine,
Urging your feet closer to The Saint.
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Soul Song Number 24 - The Pilgrim
(For Helen Especially, but Really for All Solo Female Pilgrims)
(3 May 2013)
Of course, all humans are pilgrims.
That means that every one of us is special.
When some of us realise that we are pilgrims,
We often go on a physical pilgrimage.
A physical pilgrimage such as the Camino.
All Camino pilgrims are special.
That is because they seek special knowledge,
Special information about why they exist.
Being a pilgrim on the Camino is physically hard.
Camino pilgrims often share the hardship by walking with friends and loved ones.
This can help to make the pilgrimage seem slightly less difficult than it really is.
Some pilgrims walk the Camino without the company of friends or loved ones.
For them, the Camino pilgrimage can be lonely even though they are never truly alone.
Although walking the Camino is never easy,
Male solo pilgrims often find the Camino slightly less difficult than their female counterparts.
They can often hide their fear beneath a facade of male bluster and bravado.
Female solo pilgrims cannot do this.
Not for them is there a pretence of physical strength,
An emotional showing to deter unwanted advances.
Their sole protections are intelligence and close observation of their surroundings,
Of course, there is one additional protection.
Staying lucky.
This is why female solo pilgrims are always special.
The Camino is hard for everyone,
But for them it is that much harder.
If walking the Camino is harder for solo female pilgrims,
Their reasons for doing it must be that much stronger.
That is why you wondered about Helen.
Helen said she was walking the Camino because she had turned fifty.
Perhaps Helen even thought she was walking the Camino because she had turned fifty.
You wondered if this was the real reason though.
Surely her need ran deeper than that.
Perhaps one day she would discover the true reason.
If she does,
The knowledge is hers to keep.
It does not have to be shared.
For Helen is the pilgrim,
Seeking her own truth.
Buen Camino Helen.
Buen Camino to all solo female pilgrims.
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