The albergue at Roncesvalles has a large accommodation capacity because so many peregrinos start their pilgrimage in Saint Jean. Although more peregrinos start the Camino walk than are ever able to finish it, most are able to walk from Saint Jean to Roncesvalles, so the albergue at Roncesvalles is equipped to provide a bed for several hundred peregrinos. Many peregrinos actually start their Camino walk from Roncesvalles.
In the middle of the European summer, even the large bed capacity of Roncesvalles may not be sufficient to enable every peregrino to obtain a bed. The website for Roncesvalles contains these stirring words.
Although the walking when you leave Roncesvalles is much easier than the walking needed to climb over the Pyrenees, it is still hard work. The start of the Camino walk contains some of the hardest walking you will meet on the Camino.
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This was me on the 11th of August 2009 when I walked part of the Camino. This photo was taken in the “Witches Wood” between Roncesvalles and Larrasoana.
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Photo of a drinking fountain taken between Roncesvalles and Larrasoana on the 11th of August 2009.
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Nes and I stopped for coffee at this wayside café on the 11th of August 2009.
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I took this photo of the trails left by overhead aircraft on Tuesday 16th of April 2013. Although the trails were so visible, the planes which left the trails were usually unseen.
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I took this photo on Tuesday 16th of April 2013 on the track between Roncesvalles and Larrasoana. The air was cold and filled with mist.
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I took this photo on Tuesday 16th of April 2013 on the track between Roncesvalles and Larrasoana. After the dizzy heights of the Pyrenees mountains, it seemed strange to see rolling countryside rather than mountains.
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Diary Entry Made on Tuesday 16 April 2013 at 5:25 pm
I am now at Larrasoana municipal albergue. I got here with Gerlinde at about 3:20 pm after starting the walk in the dark at 6:30 am. Dawn happened at 7:00 am. Gerlinde had trouble all day with the area behind her right knee. She took some anti-inflammatories given to her by an Australian pellegrino. He had some knee problems in Australia and he had been under GP care and the GP had given him the tablets that he offered to Gerlinde.
Today was a very difficult day of walking, especially after climbing the mountain yesterday. Mostly the Camino avoided busy roads and took us through gorgeous countryside. The constant rise and fall meant continual climbing and constant descents, even though none of it was particularly difficult on its own.
My feet ache so I soaked them in Condi's Crystals after the end of the day's walk. I will tape them up tomorrow. I feel exhausted, just like yesterday. I am having a Peregrino Meal at 7:00 pm and then I am going to bed.
There were constant vapour trails above us today and a mist was hanging around the mountains when daylight came. There was no wind today. Much of today was spent walking out of the bowl in the mountains that Roncesvalles is situated in.
Distance Walked Today: 27.7 kilometres.
Total Distance Walked So Far: 52.5 kilometres.
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Soul Song Number 3 - Vapour Trails
(16 April 2013)
At first there really wasn't much to see.
It was dark and dawn thirty minutes away when we started.
Along the track we strode
Dodging the trees and sometimes dodging the mud.
The track ended just as daylight broke.
Daylight revealed a sign saying that the woods used to be a meeting place for witches.
Dawn brought more than news of long departed witches though.
Light showed that we were framed by mountains on all sides.
The mountains had their own signature, their own trademark.
Although The Camino was clear,
The mountains roiled in mist.
The mountain vapour trail had its heavenly counterpart.
Like the mountains, the sky displayed its very own vapour show.
Although the planes couldn't be seen or heard,
They still left their mark.
Airplane vapour trails streaked across the sky,
Visible signs of the invisible.
Wearily, we started climbing once more,
There were mountains that needed to be left behind us.
Unlike the invisible planes, we didn't have wings.
Trudge, trudge.
Left leg,
Left foot.
Right leg,
Right foot.
Ignore the aching thighs,
The ache doesn't exist unless you gift awareness to it.
Then blessed relief.
You have reached the top.
Now it is bound to get easier.
But it doesn't - of course.
Whosoever goes up must - tediously - walk down.
Watch your footing here.
If you misplace it, you will definitely inflict self harm.
Ah, that is better.
At long last you are down.
Now you realise the truth of the old saying.
Be careful what you wish for.
You just might obtain your wish.
Now it is time to tackle the next hill!
So the day passes in a blur of wonder,
A constant sense of awe and unrelenting effort.
Until miraculously, here is Larrasoana.
The day's work is now over.
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