On the 25th of April 2013, I walked from Atapuerca to Burgos, a distance of about 19 kilometres. In Burgos, Stuart and I shared the cost of a room in a hotel. The relative luxury of the hotel room was in sharp contrast to the sparsity but completely adequate accommodation we had become accustomed to in the preceding days.
We followed what we thought were the official Camino marker signs to reach Burgos and they took us through a succession of dreary suburbs filled with noisy traffic. Other peregrinos told us later that they had found a way to avoid the noisy suburban streets and that they too had followed the Camino signs. Perhaps we missed a sign that would have taken us along a much more pleasant route.
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On the Camino after leaving Atapuerca, 25th of April 2013.
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Another view of the Camino after leaving Atapuerca heading towards Burgos on the 25th of April 2013.
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Sheep resting in a paddock next to the Camino on the way to Burgos from Atapuerca on the 25th of April 2013.
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Me standing next to yet another cross on the way to Burgos, 25th of April 2013.
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View of Burgos from the top of a hill outside of Burgos; photo taken on the 25th of April 2013. Burgos is the blurred cluster in the middle of the photo, just beneath the smog that blends into the blue sky.
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Me in Burgos centre shortly after arriving there on the 25th of April.
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Burgos Cathedral on the 25th of April 2013. It is huge.
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A green spot in the suburbs of Burgos.
The Camino looped around the boundary of Burgos Airport. It was dull drudgery walking along this part of the Camino.
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This part of Burgos suburbia was much greener and more pleasant than the multitude of dreary street walking that preceded it.
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Once I had trudged through the great mass of suburbs, I thought Burgos city centre was very pleasant.
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Diary Entry Made on Thursday 25 April 2013 at 2:00 pm
I am in Burgos at the Palacio de los Blasones in the "Junior executive" suite with Stuart. Right now Stuart is in the bath. The suite is luxury indeed after what I have been staying in.
We left Atapuerca just after 7:00 am this morning and the first 6 kilometres were through rolling green countryside. That countryside then gave way to having to walk on made roads with traffic. For several kilometres we walked around Burgos airport. When the airport detour was finished, we walked along a very busy dual lane each way road through extremely dreary industrial/ commercial suburbs. There were many vacant buildings, the roar of traffic and no physical beauty. The commercial crawl eventually gave way to suburban slop - high rises for poor people in the outer rings - until eventually we got to where more prosperous people lived. This was followed at last by the ancient city centre.
This was hard walking indeed - about 15 kilometres of WORK.
Then we found the hotel - luxury indeed. Tomorrow I have booked a taxi to take me 10 kilometres to Tardajos. [Note: It is actually 8.8 kilometres from Burgos to Tardajos.] Then I will walk to Castrojeriz - about 31.2 kilometres.
Distance Walked Today: 19.4 kilometres.
Total Distance Walked So Far: 272.2 kilometres.
Total Distance Covered So Far: 284.6 kilometres including the 12.4 kilometres by taxi.
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Soul Song Number 15 - Commercial Crawl/ Suburban Slog
(25 April 2013)
You had no idea what awaited you when your spritely step carried you away from yesterday's albergue.
Again, there was bright sunshine plus a bitter chill to the air.
This time, your feet and legs were pain free,
So this was the best of starts to our walk.
Soon you were marching uphill,
Amid a sea of green and a breath of sunshine.
As you laboured uphill you passed a flock of sheep.
They were huddled together to make a field clanging with the music of sheep bells.
At the top of the hill, Burgos beckoned,
Winking at you from afar,
A jewel welcoming the Pilgrim.
This was the best way to see Burgos.
The reality of Burgos differed greatly from the view from the hill.
As you descended, the track disappeared.
You began to walk on bitumen.
It was tiring on the feet and on the soul.
In a great looping curve you skirted the Burgos airport.
"Thank goodness" you thought as the airport fell away.
You rejoiced too soon.
Now came the kilometres of commercial crawl,
Winding through streets devoted to industry.
No birds sang here.
Traffic and other noises prevented any singing.
You tightened your shoulders and kept walking.
You knew this would end.
Eventually.
And of course it did end eventually.
That is when the walk became a suburban slog,
As you kept walking through the long line of suburbs.
Until eventually your goal towered ahead.
Burgos Cathedral.
The jewel of Burgos.
Santiago definitely felt closer that day.
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