Friday, April 11, 2025

Blog No. 223 - Camino Soul Songs Part 26, 11 April 2025


On Thursday the 9th of May 2013, Harold and I walked from Val de Samos to Sarria.  The Brierley distance today was 13.3 kilometres.  Sarria is the starting point for peregrinos who do not want to walk the full length of the Camino, but who nevertheless want to receive an official Credential certifying that they have indeed walked the Camino.  The minimum walking distance needed to be given a Credential is 100 kilometres and the starting point for the final 100 into Santiago de Compostella is Sarria.  The number of peregrinos on the Camino increased noticeably once we left Sarria


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This stone peregrino did not need to use the water fountain when we left Val De Samos in the morning of the 9th of May 2013.  It poured with rain.


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I was completely saturated before we had even started walking on that Thursday.  I wanted to borrow the pilgrim staff from the stone pilgrim; the stone pilgrim surely didn’t need it.


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When the rain came, it decided to stay and show us what it could do if it wanted to.  The rain bucketed down that day.


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The rain simply never stopped falling on Thursday, that 9th of May. 


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When we walked from the top of a hill, Harold saw a sign advertising beer and said there would be coffee there, so we went in.  This wonderful lady made us sit in front of a wooden fire and served us some home made soup.  She refused to let us pay for it. 

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The streets of Sarria were soaked and slippery on that wet Thursday. 


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We were just outside the albergue when I took this photo.  The rain had eased but was still unmistakably there.

 


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This mosaic shows the Sarria coat of Arms.


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Sarria was a large town, made larger by being the official designated starting point for obtaining a Camino Credential.


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Diary Entry Made on Thursday 9 May 2013 at 4:55 pm

We arrived at the albergue in Sarria just after 12:00 noon after leaving Val de Samos at 8:45 am. This was a relatively easy walk of about 13.1 kilometres.  [Note: The distance was actually about 13.3 kilometres and not 13.1 kilometres as recorded in the diary entry.]  It rained all the way from Samos to Sarria.  At about 10:15 am we walked into a small bar in a tiny village. We were soaking wet and the bar did not look promising from the outside.  Inside, the bar was clean and warm with a wood fire slow combustion heater burning.  The lady told us to sit by the fire and dry our clothes.  While we were drinking our coffee, she set down 2 bowls of delicious homemade soup. The soup had at least three different types of meat in it (chicken, chorizo, plus more), plus vegetables.  She would not let us pay for the soup.

I spent the afternoon relaxing in Sarria.  The rain eased in the afternoon.  The next two days are likely to be long ones if I am to arrive in Santiago by Monday night.

Distance Walked Today: 13.3 kilometres.

Total Distance Walked So Far: 652.3 kilometres.

Total Distance Covered So Far: 673.5 kilometres including the 21.2 kilometres by taxi.


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Soul Song Number 30 - Guru Grino

(8 May 2013)

Harold is 81 years old,

Although sometimes he anticipates and says that he is already 82.

Perhaps he is trying to obliterate the short months to his next birthday.

Harold was born in northern England,

Although he has now long been a Canadian.

Harold watched in fear and wonder,

As Hitler's air force tried to obliterate the nearby city of Liverpool.


After a lifetime spent educating the children of Canada,

Harold eventually decided to walk the Camino.

So at the age of 71, Harold went on an 800 kilometre walk.

He did it just for fun.

Having convinced himself that he truly could walk 800 kilometres,

Harold decided to do it again.

After that he kept on doing it.


You met Harold on Thursday 2 May 2013.

You could call it a slightly delayed birthday present.


Harold is so much more than a very fit man.

Harold is a very fit man with a brain that he actually uses.

Who else would even think of asking why photons of light always have to move?

Who else would deny being a linguist,

While speaking fluent English and Spanish,

Plus speaking passable French, German and Italian,

Although his knowledge of these languages seems to be much greater than merely passable.


Of course, Harold also knows much about the Camino.

He has a knowledge that can only be gained by constantly walking it.

Harold truly is a Guru Grino.

But he is much more than that.

Harold is a thinking, knowledgeable and compassionate human being.

Who could ever hope to be better than that?


Long may you keep walking Harold.

You are so much more than a mere Guru Peregrino.

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Soul Song Number 31 - A Bowl of Soup

(9 May 2013)

You were walking to Sarria.

It was good weather for walking,

Even though it was cold and raining.

The waterproofs kept most of the rain out,

While the walking kept you warm.


So it wasn't too hard to climb the long, winding hill out of Samos.

Still, it was a relief to see the sign indicating the presence of a bar.

It didn't look impressive from the outside,

But you pushed the door open anyway.


Inside the bar was clean and warm.

The lady shooed both of us towards the combustion heater fire.

She told you to warm yourselves and to dry your clothes.


As you sipped your coffee,

The bowls of soup arrived.

One for you.

One for Harold.

The soup was steaming hot,

Full of vegetables.

It contained at least three different types of meat.

You devoured it thinking "This is delicious".


Right then, this was the best soup you had ever tasted.

Eventually, you reluctantly struggled to your feet.

It was time to resume walking.


The lady refused to let you pay for the soup.

It was her gift and you cannot pay someone for a gift.

Even though it was still raining when you left,

The day seemed much brighter,

Your backpack much lighter.

All because of the kindness of a stranger,

And the taste of a bowl of soup.


Thursday, April 10, 2025

Blog No. 222 - Camino Soul Songs Part 25, 10 April 2025

On Wednesday the 8th of May 2013, Harold and I walked from O’Cebreiro to Val de Samos; Val de Samos has an albergue in a monastery but Harold did not like the standard of accommodation available there – although he said it was inexpensive.  The Brierley distance today was 32.4 kilometres. 

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I might have been a mistigrino on that 8th of May 2013, but if you walk long enough and far enough, the mist eventually disappears – even if the rain does not!

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Mist was everywhere when we left the albergue at O’Cebreiro.  It was so thick that visibility was very limited.

Harold was not at all deterred by either the mist or the rain.  He ALWAYS wore shorts, no matter what weather we got!


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The Camino wound uphill through the mist on that 8th of May day.


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The rain was starting to ease off when I took this photo.

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The Camino was filled by peregrinos on that very wet and misty day, characteristic of the season. 


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More peregrinos en route to Samos.


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This was the water world revealed after the rain finally ran out of energy.


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Like the peregrinos, this bird endured the weather and never complained!

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We had nearly arrived in Saria when I took this photo.


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The river in Samos on the 8th of May 2023.

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Fellow peregrinos on the Camino.


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Harold thought the accommodation in this monastery was too austere and preferred to bunk down elsewhere.

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This outline of a pilgrim was embedded into the footpath outside the albergue in Samos.


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Diary Entry Made on Wednesday 8 May 2013 at 5:50 pm

I am staying at Val de Samos in a private albergue.  Samos is about halfway between Triacastela and Sarria.  We left O'Cebreiro at about 7:00 am and got here at about 5:00 pm.  The Brierley distance today was 32.4 kilometres.  This means Sarria is about 11.7 kilometres away from here.  Sarria is about 114 kilometres from Santiago.  [Note: The Brierley distance was actually 118.2 kilometres and not 114 as noted in this diary entry.]  I have 5 days to cover that, plus part of Tuesday 14 May 2013 if necessary.  It should be fairly straightforward.

O'Cebreiro was covered in mist when we left this morning.  It was also raining persistently in a drizzle pattern.  It was impossible to avoid getting very wet.  The rain and mist persisted until about 11:30 am.  By the time we reached Triacastela at about 12:30 pm, the sun was trying to shine.  Adopting Spanish customs, we had a big lunch in Triacastela and then walked on in the growing sunshine.  My walking was fine even though another blister appeared on the right foot late yesterday afternoon.

Sarria is the last town from which people can walk the Camino and still claim a Compostella.  It is about 102 kilometres from Santiago [Note: The Brierley distance is 118.2 kilometres and not 102 kilometres as stated in this diary entry.] and the minimum distance for a Compostella is 100 kilometres.  At long last, I feel that Santiago is almost within reach.  In addition, it has been several days since I reached an albergue and had to immediately collapse into my sleeping bag.

Distance Walked Today: 32.4 kilometres.

Total Distance Walked So Far: 639 kilometres.

Total Distance Covered So Far: 660.2 kilometres including the 21.2 kilometres by taxi.



Soul Song Number 29 - Pilgrims in the Mist (Mistigrinos)

(8 May 2013)

Most of us know that Diane Fossey revealed to us the Gorillas in the Mist.

Before today, you never knew about Pilgrims in the Mist.

O'Cebreiro was drowning in the mist as you joined the Camino this morning.

Perched on top of its very own mountain,

O'Cebreiro attracts wind, rain and mist from across Galicia.

This morning O'Cebreiro gave you a drama show.


Mist wreathed the Camino.

Rain oozed out of the sky.

Even the birds were muted by the show.

Other pilgrims were lost to sight,

Wrapped in their own envelopes of invisibility.

Just like you were.


The Camino snaked across the mountains.

Now up.

Now down.

Sometimes neither up nor down.

All morning you walked through the mist.

Sometimes you chased Harold.

Sometimes Harold chased you.

The two of you constituted two Mistigrinos sloshing through the mud,

Splashing through the puddles,

But always walking to Santiago.


Yet again you were touched by the Camino.

This was walking to fill anyone with joy.

As the day lengthened, the mist and the rain ran away.

Unable to prevail in the face of your mounting joy.

That was when the day got even better.


With your visual blindness removed,

Now you could truly see the world you were walking in.

It was a world filed with green.

It was a world filled with mountains.

This was Galicia talking to you.

This was Galicia saying ever so casually

"Hey!  Have a look at me!  Have you ever seen such beauty?"


So at last another long day of walking found its end.

You had never been a Mistigrino before.

It felt so good!





Wednesday, April 9, 2025

Blog No. 221 - Camino Soul Songs Part 24, 9 April 2025



On Tuesday the 7th of  May 2013, Harold and I walked from Pereje to O'Cebreiro; Pareje is the first village after Villafranca del Bierzo and it is about 5 kilometres after Villafranca del Bierzo.  The Brierley distance today was 30.7 kilometres.  [Note: The Brierley distance was 28.7 kilometres and not 30.7 as noted in the diary.]

The one eatery open when we looked for breakfast in Pareje was crowded with tourigrinos and we had a long wait for breakfast.

Celtic instrumental music was blaring from loudspeakers as we entered O'Cebreiro.  This part of Spain had originally been inhabited by Celts.  The music was very similar to Irish instrumental music.

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I was nearly at the top of the very long climb to O'Cebreiro when this photo was taken of me.  I was saturated and exhausted.  The year after I walked the Camino, the doctors told me that I had a leaking heart valve.  In 2018, I had open heart surgery to repair the valve and to give me three bypasses.  No wonder I always ran out of breath immediately I started going up the slightest uphill slope.

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The street lights were still operating when Harold and I walked the streets of Pareje on our way to O'Cebreiro.  It had been raining all night and the rain got stronger as the day advanced.

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Immediately after we left Pareje, the Camino took us along a major road.  The cement barrier in this photo separated us from the continuous traffic.  Harold said that before the barrier was made, the local authorities used taxis (at the cost of the local authority) to ferry peregrinos past this dangerous stretch of Camino because there had been accidents.

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Tuesday the 7th of May 2013 was an extremely wet day for walking the Camino; this photo shows low lying clouds.  It was definitely not mist.

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Another photo of the water world we walked through on that Tuesday.

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Once the Camino ceased following the highway outside of Pareje, it became a goat track that most vehicles could not drive on.

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As the Camino goat track wound its way steadily uphill, gorse bushes increased in number.  The bushes were very prickly and sharp, but the flowers looked very pretty indeed.

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View from the top of the mountain at O'Cebreiro.  The countryside of Galicia province was spread out below us.  It never did stop raining on that Tuesday.

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Another view from the top of the mountain at O'Cebreiro

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Entry Made on Tuesday 7 May 2013 at 5:12 pm

We arrived at O'Cebreiro at about 2:30 pm after leaving Pereje at about 7:00 am.  The Brierley distance today was about 25 kilometres.  [Note: The Brierley distance was 23.8 kilometres and not 25 as recorded in the diary.]  This was a very tough day of walking.  It rained for most of the walk and it was all uphill every step of the way.

O'Cebreiro is perched right at the very top of the climb - about 1,300 metres above sea level.  We entered the province of Galicia about 1 kilometre from O'Cebreiro.  The village of O'Cebreiro has wonderful views all around - it has mountain top panoramas.  We arrived here very wet and very cold after the difficult climb.  We are staying in the municipal albergue.

Distance Walked Today: 23.8 kilometres.

Total Distance Walked So Far: 606.6 kilometres.

Total Distance Covered So Far: 627.8 kilometres including the 21.2 kilometres by taxi.



Soul Song Number 28 - Gaining Ground into Galicia

(7 May 2013)

Once again you climbed a mountain today.

It took the whole of the day's walking.

It took a large proportion of your strength.

The rain started before you even started walking.

It persisted throughout nearly every moment of your walking.


Move your legs.

Move your feet.

Keep your body moving.

Ignore the rain.

It doesn't matter.

Ignore the cold.

It can't hurt you if you keep moving.


Ignore the steady upward climb.

There is nothing you can do about it.

If you follow the Camino today,

You have to climb the mountain.

If you follow the Camino today,

You have to climb this particular mountain.


Drip, drip, drip goes the rain.

You can feel the rain in your shirt.

You can feel the rain in your trousers, your socks and your underpants.

You tell yourself that it feels good.

That is a lie of course,

But for a little while it helps.


As you walk steadily,

You gradually gain ground into Galicia.

Now you become King of the Mountain.

Walking into O'Cebreiro, at last the rain slows.

You have finished your day's travel.

This King of the Mountain is exhausted.





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Admission ticket for the municipal albergue at O’Cebreiro on Tuesday 7 May 213.